Heart and Soul

“My interest in soul food lies in my family history,” says Dedra Blount, owner of Now You’re Cooking  in Chesapeake, Virginia. Blount also served as a former chef and associate instructor for 11 years at Johnson & Wales University, one of the country’s premier culinary institutes.  By Mark Caskie

Growing up in Virginia, Blount was strongly influenced by her grandmother, the family’s matriarch and presiding chef. “My family always lived by the saying that you must know where you’ve come from in order to know where you are going,” she adds. For Blount, part of understanding her family history is a deep appreciation of the cuisine that evolved from African-American slaves’ cooking, sometimes known as soul food, a term coined during the Civil Rights era.

Preparation Time

Legends tell of slaves who brought the seeds of native African plants to America hidden in their hair. These slaves had to rely on foods that could be grown in gardens tended after their long workdays were done. Eventually, their cooking blended techniques and foods from several traditions, including African, French, Moroccan and Spanish. Corn bread was a staple, as were black-eyed peas, rice and vegetable greens such as collards. Cooks often used pork products for flavoring. “Soul food means more because it comes from creativity and bare bones,” says Blount.

On the Menu

Today, interest in soul food is on the rise again. Many restaurants serve soul food dishes, but often the preparation isn’t quite the same as it was in the past. In many cases, soul food has become more healthful, with smoked turkey often replacing smoked pork products and sautéed greens taking the place of simmered ones. A representative soul food meal includes corn bread, sautéed spinach and a gumbo.

Key Ingredients

The hallmarks of soul food are still simplicity and time in preparation. Salt, pepper, garlic and onion are among the few seasonings chefs frequently use. Chefs also spend long hours in the kitchen. “Soul food is a tradition that is passed on by doing and through storytelling,” says Blount. “It takes time and patience to learn the art of soul food.”