A Matter of Taste

In 1789, Spanish Jesuits brought olive trees to California. The trees flourished until the early 20th century. Since 1995, though, California has been riding the wave of an olive oil renaissance.  By Marlena Spieler

Olive oil can be appreciated for its subtle nuances of flavor and aroma, often described in terms of familiar tastes and smells such as melon, grass, flowers and almonds. Fine olive oil reflects the soil and climate where the olives were grown, and each harvest has its own personality.

In recent years, the California olive oil industry has blossomed. Here are a few of my favorite California olive oils and where to find them.

McEvoy Ranch Olive Oil Store in San Francisco’s Ferry Building is a great place to start your olive oil odyssey. Produced from olives grown in Marin County, McEvoy Olive Oil (12.7 fluid ounces: $22) is smooth, aromatic and slightly peppery on the finish. Featured in restaurants and shops throughout California, the brand also sells nationally at Whole Foods Market.

I never visit the Wine Country without stopping at Napa Valley Olive Oil Manufacturing Company (835 Charter Oak Ave., St Helena, 707-963-4173), down a little road in St Helena. The oil is robust, rambunctious and straightforwardly delicious—and demands little of your wallet (16 fluid ounces: $7.50).

One of California’s oldest olive oils producers, Sciabica’s, is near Modesto in
the Central Valley. Sciabica’s Sevillano Variety Fall Harvest (5 fluid ounces: $6.50) has taken top awards in international judging, and its Marsala Brand (5 fluid ounces: $5) is a delicious basic oil for daily use.

Also in the Central Valley, you’ll find Bariani Olive Oil which is grassy and full of flavor. It’s sold at Sacramento area farmers’ markets, in specialty shops or by mail at prices 40 to 45 percent less than retail (8.45 fluid ounces: $4.50).

From southern California, Santa Barbara Olive Co.  is America’s No. 1 specialty olive company. It sells different kinds of herb-infused oils, including an Italian oil variety (5 fluid ounces: $5).

Today, there are more than 300 olive ranchers in California, growing 187 distinctive types of olives.

Marlena Spieler is a San Francisco Chronicle food columnist and the author of more than 40 books.