By Annette McGivney, Cyril Manning and Larry Rice
 

 

Grand Canyon National Park

You’ve marveled at scenes like this on postcards and in coffee-table books, but when you actually lay eyes on the Grand Canyon—with its sea of red and orange rock towers rising from the abyss—it is almost too spectacular to be real.

Protected as a national park in 1919, the Grand Canyon exposes more of the Earth’s history than anyplace else on the planet. As you stand at various overlooks in the park, you can take in canyon views that are a mile deep and 18 miles wide, giving you a glimpse of more than 2 billion years of geology.

Tourists have been coming to gawk at this giant geologic phenomenon for more than a century, ever since the Grand Canyon Railway first made the remote landscape accessible to the general public in 1901. Today, with too many cars and too few parking spaces in Grand Canyon National Park, the train is still the ticket for getting to the heart of this natural wonder. 

Your journey begins at the Grand Canyon Railway depot in Williams, 30 miles west of Flagstaff. You’ll arrive at the national park’s historic Grand Canyon Depot around noon. You’ll have a little more than three hours of exploration time before boarding the train for the return ride. The depot is located in Grand Canyon Village and just a stone’s throw from canyon overlooks, shops and restaurants. Consider packing a picnic lunch and stretching your legs on the Rim Trail. This mostly flat path winds through pine forest and leads to spectacular overlooks. Keep your eyes peeled for ravens riding canyon thermals. 

For a pleasant three-mile round-trip hike, pick up the Rim Trail, due north of the train station, and follow it northwest to Maricopa Point. From the point—an excellent picnic spot—you can watch hikers directly below snaking down the switchbacks of the Bright Angel Trail. And about 2,000 feet farther down on the Tonto Plateau, you’ll see the cottonwood-lined oasis called Indian Gardens. If you peer some 5,000 feet down to the canyon’s bottom, you’ll catch the glint of the Colorado River’s green waters. Stare at this canyon panorama long enough, and it can play tricks on your sense of scale. Landmarks on the North Rim, 20 miles away, will look closer than features right next to Maricopa Point.

After your hike, get something cold to drink back in Grand Canyon Village. Or shop for Native American crafts, such as turquoise jewelry, at Hopi House, a pueblo-style building next to the rim just north of the train station. Before you know it, the whistle is blowing and it’s time to board the afternoon train.

Author Bio: Annette McGivney is the Southwest editor for Backpacker magazine.

Cape Cod National Seashore

On Cape Cod at this time of year, every smell says summertime—from the lobster rolls and clams served up at countless roadside shacks, to the sweet smell of coconut sunscreen and the cool, salty air that takes the edge off the sun-baked days. But Cape Cod National Seashore offers far more than beach umbrellas and sandcastles. These 40 miles of pristine coastline envelop a delicate, 40,000-acre ecosystem defined by its relationship to the sea.

Your gateway to the Seashore is a two-hour drive from downtown Boston. Salt Pond and Nauset Marsh introduce you to the beauty of this crooked peninsula, where more than 350 glacial freshwater ponds coexist with the rolling tides. Here you can pick up information on lighthouse tours and the area’s heritage of pirates, shipwrecks and sea rescues.

From here, take a leisurely hike along Nauset Trail and watch blue heron, osprey and other shore birds swoop through the grassy fields and swampy forest, plucking their meals from the streams and tidal creeks that cut through the land. By mid-morning, the trail will bring you to Coast Guard Beach, where you can survey the dramatic march of marshland toward the sea, enjoying the view in relative solitude.

Next, head to Wellfleet, where you can lunch on lobsters, oysters and clams at Beachcomber, just steps from the silky sand of Cahoon Hollow Beach. To explore this part of the shoreline, rent a kayak from Jack’s in Wellfleet and launch from the town pier. The mellow water here makes it easy to glide across the bay to Great Island, one of the park’s best-kept secrets. You won’t run into many other visitors as you skirt the sandy dunes and sloping stands of pine that mark this shoreline, but you’ll see plenty of shore birds, hawks and red-winged blackbirds.

You’ll also find plenty of quiet landings to beach your kayak, rest in the sun and hunt for fiddler crabs. This is the seashore at its most intimate; paddling back to town, now backlit by the dipping sun and framed against the immaculate harbor, your sense of the Cape is far richer than sunscreen and sandcastles.

Back on dry land, you’ll find no better place to wind down than at Race Point Beach, an old seafarers’ outpost at the tip of the Cape. Here, watch the setting sun wash the sky in tangerine and pink—locals and tourists alike attest that this is the most spectacular show on the Cape.

Author Bio: Freelancer Cyril Manning specializes in adventure, travel and health articles.

Rocky Mountain National Park

Heading northwest out of the Mile High City, you’ll soon reach the gateway
to “Rocky,” as the Rocky Mountain National Park is known to locals. The air is suddenly cool and sweet with the aroma of pine and spruce. And moving on—whoa, flatlander!—just as suddenly, you become aware that you’ve entered a very special place, a mountain kingdom to rival anywhere on this planet.

The temptation is to see everything—right now! But take some time to orient yourself before you set out to explore the park’s 416-square-mile wilderness.

First, stop in at the Beaver Meadows Visitor Center, near the park entrance. A free movie there gives an overview of the park’s features. Be sure to browse the bookstore for natural and cultural history books, as well as games and toys for the kids. (The Trail Ridge Road Adventure Sticker and Game Book is a favorite.)

Now you’re ready for the adventure to begin. Strap on those seat belts and get ready to take one of the most breathtaking drives in the national park system. Stretching 48 miles between Estes Park Village on the park’s eastern edge to Grand Lake on its western side, Trail Ridge Road (U.S. 34) is the highest continuous paved road in the United States. Eleven miles of this highway wind above the tree line, the elevation near 11,500 feet where the area’s evergreen forests come to an end, replaced by a rocky alpine world. Climbing to its high point at 12,183 feet elevation, Trail Ridge Road provides views of dozens of peaks, glimpses of animals (bighorn sheep, mule deer and elk are commonly visible), and dramatic wildflower displays, all from your comfortable car.

Set aside at least a half-day for the road trip, but leave time to stretch your legs. With 359 miles of trails, Rocky Mountain is a haven for hikers. The most popular trails begin along Bear Lake Road. Although most of the hikes in this area are short, the rewards are many. From the Bierstadt Lake trailhead, it’s an easy 1.5-mile jaunt to Bierstadt Lake, where the 19th century painter Albert Bierstadt created one of his dramatic images. Farther up the road is the Glacier Gorge Junction trailhead.

A lure here is Alberta Falls, a half-mile in. A little over one mile from the Bear Lake trailhead is Dream Lake, a favorite of photographers. 

Indeed, there’s so much to do in Rocky you will surely want to return on another day in the not-too-distant future, ready to renew your exploration of America’s mountain roof.

Author Bio: Writer, photographer and outdoor enthusiast Larry Rice has traveled to seven continents from his home in Buena Vista, Colorado. 

It was another adventure-filled day for our 1K Country Crew!   Our fabulous road trippers woke up, snug in their beds in our beautiful Naperville, IL hotel and (cookies in hand), departed for destinations unknown.  At the end of the day, they arrived at our historic St. Charles, MO hotel.

There are a few pictures above highlighting their adventures – but take a minute to check out the beautiful camera work of the Suite Stops below, and have an adventure without ever leaving your chair. 

A good morning to our weary travelers… first stop ? The clock tower in Fredenhagen Park, Naperville, IL.  From there, off to experience the Route 66 Experience and Joliet Area Historical Museum!  After spending some time with the Blues Brothers, they headed off to find the “Beardless Bunyan” in Atlanta, IL – and grab a blue plate lunch at the Palms Grill Cafe.  With full bellies, our road warriors continued on to the iconic Soulsby’s Gas Station where, judging from the pictures above, it looks like the travelers weren’t the only ones in need of refueling!   The final Suite Stop of the day?  Our stunning St. Charles, Missouri hotel. 

If you don’t have time to view all those Suite Stops, you can see the “Cliffs Notes” version here.  And don’t forget to visit the blogs for a more intimate look at each family adventure!

Kara Williams / The Vacation Gals
Sharlene Earnshaw / Trekaroo
Ross Sveback / Kon-tent

And of course… follow them all (and me!) on twitter: @karasw, @thevacationgals, @trekaroo, @sveback, @doubleadventure, and @CountryInns, or by following the list CIS-1K-Country.

Final thoughts  from Em? 

I think you’ll all agree that viewing these videos and pics is a heartwarming reminder of the big, beautiful place we live.  I hope we can all take some time this summer to explore and appreciate all this amazing country has to offer…  to “disconnect and reconnect” with our families and friends.  Even though our ”adventure families” aren’t exactly disconnecting, they are definitely reconnecting with each other — and with us!. 

From the bottom of my heart — and all of us at Country Inns & Suites — thank you for sharing your family with ours.

Stay tuned for Day 4!

I love this Country.
~Emily

PS: Big highlight from today?  Kara’s daughter lost a tooth on the road… and didn’t even know what state she was in when she lost it!

I’m not even really sure where to start – so much to share and say, and today is only day 3 of the 1K Country Adventure.  It’s been a whirlwind of fun so far, and I have a bit of a “techno-glazed” expression on my face from spending the lst 72 hours glued to the computer, watching twitter, facebook, and our participant blogs.  The stories, pictures, and videos have been so heartwarming that I wish Iwas on the roadtrip adventure!  Make sure you click on “MORE” to see all the various multi-media gems that have already cropped up, courtesy of our adventure families!  A sampling?  Pictures of a giant orange moose, Ross riding a giant deer, kids reflection in the Chicago Bean, a Kare 11 news clip, and a “meet the bloggers” video segment, in addition to the SWEET Suite Stops that are guiding the travelers along the unknown roadtrip path!  I’m exhausted from just writing this post!

Let’s go back to Saturday: Our three families arrived at the Country Inns & Suites By Carlson Mall of America property, where I FINALLY got to meet them and their fabulous kiddos – let me tell you, after months of talking to these families via web and phone, I felt like I was hugging old friends -  for the first time!  An Avis representative was on site to explain all the features and benefits of the Ford Flex vehicles they’d be driving, and our fabulous staff and agency partners talked the families through the structure of the roadtrip, and how to best utilize their JVC Everio HD Cams and Sprint Samsung  Momentsmartphones, and how to use the Duracell chargers to stay connected on the road!

After many photo opportunities, we all departed… but unexpectedly got the call to regroup at 9 AM the next morning because Kare 11, the Minneapolis NBC affilliate, told us they were going to show up to shoot a segment for the 5 o’clock news!  Awesome! 

KARE-11_1KCA

And after that… they were off.  First stop?  Mall of America!  It’s a little known fact to anybody outside of Minnesota that the MOA was built on the grounds of the old Metropolitan stadium, which was later torn down when Minneapolis decided to build the Metrodome, current home of the Minnesota Vikings football team, and former home of the Minnesota Twins baseball team!  So after they found the plaque commemorating the OLD home plate:

they were off to see the new:  since Target Field opened in Minneapolis this April, baseball in Minnesota has never been more exciting.

 
 (Can you say “Christmas card”?)

Whew!  And once they’d all completed their Minnesota Suite Stops, they were off to Wisconsin:   

Amidst rolling fields peppered with barns and cows, their stops included Cady Cheese Factory, a giant orange moose (what?), the state capitol, and a few other Suite Stops before settling into the Country Inns & Suites By Carlson Madison West property for a long slumber.

That comes PRETTY close to wrapping up day 1, but to be honest, there is so much to talk about I feel that I can’t even do it justice (going forward, these posts won’t be as long – I’ll do one day at a time – but this Saturday, Sunday, AND Monday are all rolled into one recap).

Are you still with me? 

Moving on to Day 2, the families journeyed to Milwaukee and Chicago where they took in sites such as Miller Park, Northpoint Lighthouse, and finally — after battling some rush hour traffic — Millenium Park and the beloved Bean sculpture (officially called the Cloud Gate sculpture).

Again, so many pictures and memories to share:

And after a long day of exploring, adventuring, and battling rush hour traffic, they snuggled in for a long sleep at the Country Inns & Suites Naperville property, where I’m told the adults enjoyed some beverages in our on-site lounge, while the kiddos drifted off to sleep.

Reminders:
Follow @countryinns, @karasw, @sveback, and @doubleadventure on twitter… to make it easy, we created a list – www.twitter.com/countryinns/CIS-1k-Country!  You can also become a fan on Facebook in order to see all the fun pics, videos, and posts that I put up daily as I follow these families on their adventure.

And don’t forget their blogs — well, you can always visit our Facebook page for the latest and greatest, but if you’d like to add the blogs directly, make sure you add Ross, Kara, and Sharlene to your feed readers, in addition to Sharlene’s writings at Trekaroo!

ALSO – I know you’re all dying with anticipation to know their final destination.  Got a guess?  You can visit The Vacation Gals blog to give a guess and the winner will receive a cookbook, courtesy of Kara Williams!  But my lips are sealed… until Saturday, anyway! 

WHEW – I’m exhausted just from writing this, so I can’t imagine how tired our travelers must be.  On that note – I’m signing off for now… but I’ll be back tomorrow to give you a Day 3 update!

I love this Country!
~Emily

PS: You can watch Day 1 and 2’s Suite Stops here,  here, here, here, here, here, here, here, and here!  Happy viewing!

PPS: Avis donated use of the vehicles, JVC donated the Everio HD Cams, and Sprint donated use of the Samsung Moment phones.  Duracell donated chargers for all contestants, and we’ve comped their rooms at Country Inns & Suites. 

 What’s even better than taking a family road trip?  Taking a road trip with the destination: UNKNOWN. 

So that is exactly what we’ve enlisted some of our favorite families to do. 

The journey begins at the Mall of America on Saturday, June 5th and concludes on the 13th. 

Where?  Nobody knows! 

(Well, WE know, but we’re not tellin’!)

You can follow along on twitter by watching the list www.twitter.com/countryinns/CIS-1k-country!

Join The Williams Family (@KaraSW),
 
The Sveback Family (@Sveback),
 
and The Earnshaw Family (@doubleadventure), as they wind their way through 1K Adventure Country.  You can follow the action at www.countryinns.com/1kCountry, or via the twitter hashtag #CIS1K. 

Their journey will be guided by technology – using Where 2 Navigation systems and environmentally friendly vehicles (both courtesy of Avis), the families will complete various adventures on the road.  In true scavenger-hunt style, they won’t get their next task until the previous one is completed. 

How will they know what to do?  By watching the “Suite Stops” videos, sent to them on their Samsung Moment, a Droid-based smart phone donated by Sprint Wireless, from two-time Emmy-nominated video journalist, Dave Sniadak.  We’ll know they’ve completed the task when the families send us a picture or post it to twitter, confirming they’ve completed the adventure. 

The families will share their pictures, videos, thoughts and Suite Stops on their blogs — we’ll echo them here on Talk of the Country, but you should be sure to follow along with the hashtag #CIS1K.   

If you participated in our #WMCountry twitter party the other night, you might remember the “top secret super cool summer vacation” that I alluded to – yep, this is it!  I’ll be there at the finish line to meet and greet our participants, and hear all about what made the adventure special.

Remember – you can create your own adventure with our Sizzling Summer Savings offer.  Visit www.countryinns.com/1kcountry.  Book 3 or more nights* and save 15%, PLUS, you’ll get $25 in Dining Cash, and 3000 bonus goldpoints.  Once you’ve captured your adventure on film, be sure to enter it into our Working Mother “I love this Country” photo contest for the chance to win a 2-night stay at Country Inns & Suites By Carlson.

*terms and conditions apply.  See website for full offer.

I love this Country!
~Emily

Even the most serious shoppers will be impressed by the size of Mall of America in Bloomington. Touring the country’s largest mall takes some stamina, so tackle it while you’re fresh. More than 500 stores await your visit—including Build-A-Bear Workshop, where kids can create customized stuffed animals—plus Nickelodeon Universe, an indoor amusement park. After you and your kids brave the park’s roller coaster, carousel and pint-sized train, check out Underwater Adventures, an underground aquarium where guests go nose-to-nose with sharks and stingrays from inside a glass tunnel.

Continue your animal adventure with lunch at the Mall’s Rainforest Café (entrées $11–$20), decorated with faux foliage and tropical creatures to replicate that authentic jungle atmosphere. It serves Congo Catfish for grown-ups, Rasta Pasta for kids and a Sparkling Volcano dessert to share. If the weather is balmy, head to the sprawling playground structure at nearby Hyland Lake Park Reserve. If you’d rather play indoors, there’s the Water Park of America, with a wave pool and waterslides. While the kids splash, adults can relax with a facial or massage at the Trillium Spa at the Radisson Hotel Bloomington by Mall of America.

For dinner, try Jun Bo in nearby Richfield, which serves Chinese-American favorites such as chicken chow fun ($10), and a dim sum selection rivaling those of New York’s and San Francisco’s more famous Chinatowns. The wait staff push carts containing small snacks, everything from pork buns to mango pudding, which makes for a lively, interactive meal.

Day Two: Minnesota Museums and an Evening Show

Start your morning in downtown St. Paul at the Day by Day Cafe, a homey, knickknack-filled eatery serving breakfast standards ($4–$10) all day long.

For children ages 6 months to 10 years, a trip to the Minnesota Children’s Museum is a must. Kids can operate a tot-sized crane, crawl inside a mock anthill and try out the touchable art gallery on the museum’s roof. If you’re traveling with older children, visit the Science Museum of Minnesota for exhibits on everything from animation to Star Wars to the human body. When you’re ready for a break, watch The Alps, the story of a courageous mountaineer’s redemptive climb, at the museum’s IMAX Omnitheater (through June 12).

Break for a burger, malt and fries at the classic Mickey’s Diner. The restored art deco railcar has been featured in many locally filmed movies, including The Mighty Ducks and A Prairie Home Companion.

Spend the afternoon touring the Wabasha Street Caves, once a notorious gangster hideout during Prohibition, and learn about the legends of Ma Barker and John Dillinger along with a bit of geologic history.

End the evening on the Mississippi River with dinner and a show on the historic Minnesota Centennial Showboat, with performances by theater and dance students from the University of Minnesota.

Plan your next visit to coincide with the Minnesota State Fair. “The Great Minnesota Get-Together” is famous for its livestock exhibitions, crop art competition and food-on-a-stick.

Rachel Hutton rode the Timberland Twister at Mall of America—and screamed the entire time.

Today Fredericksburg remembers its Old World beginnings with German-style fachwerk buildings with exposed beams and masonry fill. Those roots are also evident at the downtown Fredericksburg Winery, where signature labels feature artwork and local history—such as the light Texas Chardonnay “Adelsverein” ($15), named for the society formed by German princes to help emigrants to the new Republic of Texas. Or try the oak-barrel-aged Port Carlshafen ($40), a full-bodied port.

Like many local wineries, this is a family-run operation, headed by no-nonsense Cord Switzer, along with his wife Sandy, brothers Jene and Bert, and mother “Oma,” charged with labeling each bottle by hand. The Switzers are happy to give travelers a taste of the fruits of their labor; prices start at $13, or $40 for port.

For visitors who have more time, the winery lies within walking distance of many of Fredericksburg’s more than 150 boutiques. Homestead offers antiques, while Zertz tempts with items such as cheese trays made from flattened wine bottles. Nearby, the casual Fredericksburg Brewing Company, lined with copper and stainless brewing tanks, features Schinken Schnitzel, a veal cutlet crowned with Black Forest ham and Swiss cheese.

Next, go east, where “bouquet” describes not only wine but wildflowers. Stop and smell the bluebonnets at Wildseed Farms, the nation’s largest wildflower seed farm. Then head over for a tour and a tasting at Grape Creek Vineyards, on the banks of namesake South Grape Creek. Here acres of climbing vines yielded the prize-winning 2002 Fumé Blanc, made from 100 percent sauvignon blanc grapes. The wine is aged in oak barrels for eight months, which brings out a mélange of vanilla, black currant, bell pepper and berry flavors.

Becker Vineyards, with 46 acres of French Vinifera vines, boasts Texas’ largest underground wine cellar. It’s filled with specialties such as the 2002 Viognier, an elegant wine with a hint of violets, peach and apricot, served at a dinner for Australia’s prime minister at President Bush’s Prairie Chapel Ranch, and the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve ($24.95).

Dine at Austin’s restaurant, in Rose Hill Manor near Fredericksburg, open Wednesday through Sunday nights. Specialties such as New Zealand venison medallions are accompanied by an extensive wine list showcasing Hill Country vintages—the perfect end to a day of wine touring.

Hill Country residents Paris Permenter and John Bigley like to pair barbecue and bordeaux.

She’s shared this great video of her family’s adventures on the road — we hope you’ll enjoy it as much as we do.  And once again, a huge thank you to Chelsea @JVC_USA for donating the beautiful JVC Everio HD Camcorders.  We’re sure they helped our families (and us!) create memories that will last a lifetime.

I love this Country!
~Emily

Start your visit in the French Quarter, with its Old World spirit, infinitely varied architecture and faded elegance. A good beginning is in Jackson Square, the epicenter of the French Quarter, a meeting place for street musicians, voodoo queens, fortune-tellers, artists, historians and tourists.

Although it looks like a fairy-tale castle, Saint Louis Cathedral on Jackson Square is the oldest continuously operating cathedral in America. Check out St. Anthony’s Garden, with its statue of Christ with uplifted arms and a white marble obelisk dedicated to 19th-century victims of yellow fever. Follow Pirates Alley, adjacent to the cathedral, to number 624, home to Nobel Prize winner William Faulkner while he was writing his early works. Now the site houses Faulkner House Books, with its large collection of Faulkner first editions and literary collectibles.

In a world of Disney-esque attractions, the French Quarter is unfailingly authentic. Many of the city’s more than 35,000 buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places are located here.

Neighborhood Flavor

Too many visitors don’t venture far off of Bourbon Street, and that’s a shame. Although you have to walk it at least once—and there is good music (and overpriced drinks) to be had—Bourbon Street’s 14 blocks of tacky souvenir shops, bars and adult entertainment are not what this town is really about. Head a block toward the river to Royal Street, a 10-block stretch of antique shops and art galleries that is also the address for some of the Quarter’s most elegant homes. Landmarks include Mr. B’s Bistro, Rodrigue Studio, with its collection of Blue Dog paintings, and the Gallier House, a Creole townhouse turned museum.

Head toward Decatur Street, once the Quarter’s roughest piece of riverfront real estate. Now it’s home to shopping at Canal Place and Jax Brewery, the House of Blues and a Hard Rock Café. A bit farther down you’ll find the French Market and Café Du Monde, a must for café au lait and beignets, N’Awlins’ version of the doughnut. 

To the north, just up from where the Mississippi bends into its famous crescent, is Faubourg Marigny, an original Creole neighborhood that is a hotbed of nightclubs, bars and restaurants. Decidedly Boho in feel, the central Frenchmen Street is five blocks of cafés, music clubs and restaurants that spill people out into the street every weekend. You’ll find music from reggae to blues to salsa here, and restaurants reflect a global mix of everything from sushi to Turkish kabobs, from Southwestern to Indian curry.

On the other end of the spectrum, a walk through the Garden District is one of the sophisticated pleasures of a visit to New Orleans. This sector sheltered wealthy Americans who built the antitheses of French- and Creole-style homes, hence the Victorian, Italianate and Greek Revival manses that still line the streets. Until the St. Charles Streetcar line starts running again in 2007, temporary buses serve St. Charles Avenue into the Garden District.

Keep your walking shoes on, and visit the galleries on Julia Street in the Warehouse Arts District, a neighborhood that is also home to the National World War II Museum, the Contemporary Arts Center, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, and the acclaimed Ogden Museum of Southern Art.

Across town, in City Park, the New Orleans Museum of Art houses an impressive $200 million permanent collection of more than 40,000 pieces of art, photography and more.

Shopping Stops

Shopping in the French Quarter is all about discovery. Free of chain stores and fiercely proud of its owner-operated retail sector, this neighborhood boasts fine art galleries, eclectic boutiques and quirky ateliers for everything from handmade leather masks to hammered silver jewelry. Don’t miss New Orleans Gem & Lapidary on St. Philip, an untouristy spot for bling on a side street between Decatur and Chartres. Bring home zydeco, blues and traditional brass music from Louisiana Music Factory, pralines from Aunt Sally’s and custom-blended scents from Bourbon French Parfums.

Stretching six miles parallel to the Mississippi River from Canal Street to Audubon Park, Magazine Street travels from the Central Business District all the way through the Garden District to Uptown. Local designer Mignon Faget has a gallery here, showcasing jewelry inspired by symbols of New Orleans, from a gumbo necklace—dripping with shrimp, crab and okra charms—to king cake doll pendants and French fleur-de-lis designs.

It’s All About the Food

For your first taste of New Orleans, skip the pretense and stop at Liuzza’s by the Track, famous for roast beef po’ boys ($7.25), dark seafood gumbo ($4/cup; $7.50/bowl) and garlicky barbecued shrimp ($8.25). If it’s Old Guard you want, Galatoire’s is the epitome of a Creole Palace, staffed by waiters who have tended the same families for generations. The Trout Meunière ($19.50) and Pompano Meunière Amandine with crabmeat garnish ($31) are signatures.

Uptown, JoAnn Clevenger at Upperline  is the effusive doyenne of the restaurant scene, serving updated Creole cooking like the signature fried green tomato with shrimp rémoulade (average entrée $21) in an art gallery setting. While there are scores of creative chefs in town, John Besh is at the top of the list. Restaurant August spotlights his Creole-influenced contemporary cuisine in a former warehouse space now aglow with French doors, burgundy velvet chairs and chandeliers. Besh keeps one foot in his native Bayou and the other in the big city, putting out creative seasonal dishes such as his BLT ($12)—buster crabs, lettuce and heirloom tomatoes—and Louisiana rabbit with morels served with sage grits.

Post-Katrina openings include Vizard’s on the Avenue, powered by veteran chef Kevin Vizard; Longbranch in Abita Springs on the Northshore of Lake Pontchartrain, and Cochon, Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s Warehouse District Valentine to authentic Cajun fare.

Music Is in the Air

A music lover’s paradise—home to jazz, Cajun, R&B and soul—the city has produced its share of musical giants, from Louis Armstrong and Dr. John to contemporary acts like Better Than Ezra and Galactic.

While you probably know about Preservation Hall, you may be new to places that cater more to locals. From Donna’s  for brass on Rampart to swamp boogie at Rock n’ Bowl in Mid-City, the music never has to stop. Another uptown spot not to miss is the Maple Leaf Bar, with its sweaty dance floor and lineup of great funk, Cajun, R&B and blues. Walter “Wolfman” Washington is a regular, and if Beausoleil or the ReBirth Brass Band is playing on the bandstand in the window, you won’t have a better time anywhere in town. On a hot night, partiers spill onto the street or out on the pretty patio for a breath of air.

For more live music and your choice of more than 160 beers, head for d.b.a. in the Marigny, a sultry lounge spot owned by the same folks who run the New York club. There’s never a cover at the Spotted Cat across the street, a tiny club that delivers more great local music, from brassy jazz combos to acoustic strummers. It doesn’t get more classic than on Friday nights at Snug Harbor, with Ellis Marsalis, patriarch of the Marsalis clan, holding court upstairs. The show is televised downstairs at the standing-room-only bar.

Top 10 Must-Do’s

1. Beignets, everyone? Café Du Monde serves pillows of sugary fried dough with chicory-flavored café au lait at seven locations around the city. 

2. Giddy-up. OK, it’s touristy, but taking a mule-drawn carriage ride around the Quarter is also really fun.  

3. Jazz it up at Preservation Hall. This iconic haunt on St. Peter Street has been the place for no-frills brass since 1961.  

4. Sample muffalettas at Central Grocery. The N’Awlins version of a sub is piled high with Italian meats and smeared with the Grocery’s trademark green olive salad. 

5. Catch Kermit Ruffins at Vaughan’s. Most Thursdays, the local trumpet impresario rocks this friendly Bywater dive. Take a cab.

6. Shop the French Market. A mixed bag of kitsch, local artwork and imported knockoffs keep company with hot sauce and Cajun spices.

7. Join the scene on Frenchmen Street. A diverse alt crowd frequents this street off of Esplanade in the Marigny, a hub of nightlife and international restaurants.

8. Dine at a legend. The newly reopened Commander’s Palace, housed in a Garden District Victorian mansion, is the flagship of the Brennan family, with a history that dates back to 1880.

9. Visit the National World War II Museum. This repository of military history is vivid with personal stories. It’s here because the landing craft used in the D-Day invasions was built locally and tested on nearby bayous.

10. Aw, shucks! Have a seat at the scarred marble oyster bar and watch the pros in action at Acme Oyster House, where Gulf oysters are a specialty and the fried oyster po’ boys, dressed (with the works), are just about perfect.

PRACTICAL TIPS
Walking is a great way to see New Orleans, but if you’d rather ride, $1.25 will get you on a bus or one of the city’s historic streetcars.

• Instead of west, east, north or south, you’re likely to hear “uptown,” “downtown,” “lakeside” and “riverside” when asking for directions.
• If you hear someone refer to a “banquette,” they’re talking about a sidewalk.
• Ask for your po’ boy “dressed,” and it will come with lettuce, tomato, pickles and mayo.

 If you’ve seen New Orleans, try …

From Beale Street to 18th and Vine, the roots of American music reach beyond the Big Easy. And you don’t have to travel far to find some toe-tapping alternatives.

Memphis, Tennessee

As the city that calls itself “Home of the Blues, Birthplace of Rock n’ Roll,” Memphis doesn’t disappoint. This city of 650,000 people grew up along the banks of the Mississippi River. The nation’s first original musical form—the blues—grew up here, too, on Beale Street, where legends like W.C. Handy and B.B. King got their start.

Kansas City, Missouri

Jazz may have been born in New Orleans, but many of the genre’s greatest performers got their start in Kansas City. Today, visitors can hear live jazz and relive the city’s musical legacy at the American Jazz Museum on 18th Street. Housed in the same complex is the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum, paying tribute to legends like Jackie Robinson.

 Travel writer Beth D’Addono first fell in love with New Orleans more than 15 years ago, and the honeymoon isn’t over yet.

Along an unhurried drive, the Sonoran Desert presents delicate, just-emerging cactus blossoms. In downtown Scottsdale, the Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art offers a special exhibit of the classic, black-and-white images of Ansel Adams. You can check the matinee at the adjacent Scottsdale Center for the Arts to see if an acclaimed musical artist or perhaps an edgy drama holds afternoon appeal. Meanwhile, a burger at quirky AZ88 supplies sustenance.

Or you might stroll across Scottsdale Road to the Arts & Antiques District, where Main Street galleries purvey Western-style art. International and contemporary art galleries line Marshall Way, and Fifth Avenue’s American Indian jewelry and crafts shops offer exquisite take-home treasures of turquoise and silver.

When evening comes, a twilight amble along Main Street brings you to Old Town Tortilla Factory, where you’re guided to a table for two on a twinkle-lighted patio under a hundred-year-old pecan tree. You begin with a pair of icy margaritas and a cilantro pesto quesadilla, and then linger over spicy blackened mahi-mahi, or perhaps a platter of build-your-own tacos, trading samples of each other’s choices.

After coffee and fresh berry flan, you head back to the car for the brief motor to Stetson Drive and a nightcap. The street winds among shops, restaurants and boutiques, so snag a parking space when you find one.

Your destination is Kazimierz World Wine Bar, hidden in an off-street passageway behind a restaurant called Cowboy Ciao. Once your eyes adjust to the subdued candlelight, you scan the 800-bottle wine list, deliberating over more than two dozen themed wine flights. Snuggled into a cushy couch, you let your conversation drift back over the events of the day.

Fill the rest of the weekend with a round of golf, a petroglyph hike, a desert jeep trip or a browse through ancient ruins. The Sonoran Desert makes this destination unique; your weekend getaway for two makes them unforgettable.

At the 2,871-foot-high summit, towering trees pierce the bright blue sky like a skier’s stairway to heaven. A crisp cold wall of fresh air, scented with pine, greets us as the doors swing open. Clicking into our skis, we make our first run down P’tit Bonheur, a carved green (beginner) run through fresh snow. Schussing on a perfectly groomed white carpet, we are flanked by snow-laden trees on either side.

At the first lift, a regular lets us in on the local secret to avoiding long lines: Ski the more remote North Side and Edge area in the morning, and in the afternoon, when the uninitiated discover that the easier runs are on the North, head to the sunny South Side and Versant Soleil. With 49 miles of trails cutting through 654 acres of varied terrain, there are plenty of options here for skiers of all levels. I surprise my son—and myself—with a daredevil routine on the six-meter-high half-pipe in Tremblant’s snow park, rated one of the best snow parks in North America by Ski Magazine (www.skinet.com). 

We venture to Versant Soleil in the afternoon. The rugged landscape is heart stopping. Contoured trails hug the natural terrain with undulating troughs and sharp rising mounds. I careen down the roller-coaster-like slope. Total freedom! Later, drawn by the smell of burning wood and maple syrup, we stumble on a voyager’s log cabin, where a roaring fire and hot refreshments beckon us inside. Weathered wooden snowshoes hanging on a wall remind me it’s time for the “walk on the wild side” part of our winter adventure.

We head up the mountain again, this time on the back of a snowmobile and outfitted with rented high-tech snowshoes—only our tracks mark the pristine snow. Early dusk is the ideal time to observe area wildlife. Barely 25 yards along the trail, a mother doe keeps three young fawns in tow. Feeding on a thicket of trees and shrubs, they pay no attention to us. After a perfect winter day, I have a translation for the resort’s slogan, “joie de vivre”: Anyone coming to Tremblant had better be prepared to have a good time.

 John W. Yan is the founding publisher of the Canadian Tourism Commission’s TOURISM magazine. He lives in Ottawa, Ontario.